(by Bernard Stonor)
Editorial comment (Bob Reilly) Reprinted, with permission of the Bromeliad Society of Australia, from Bromeletter, 1970, volume 7 (2), p. 6. In this article, Bernard Stonor, one of the West Australian pioneers of bromeliad growing, discusses how to grow pitcairnias from seed, and some of their cultural requirements. As a matter of interest, an alternative approach to using the compost suggested by Bernard Stonor as a seed –raising mixture is to make a mix comprised of 1 part coarse sand to 1 part peat moss, and sterilise it by pouring boiling water over it. The sterilised mixture can then be placed in used chinese food containers, the seed sown, and the container’s plastic lid applied.
The pitcairnias generally produce very small seed, with an appendage at each end, and being dry, like those of all the sub-family Pitcainioideae, will remain viable longer than most of the seed obtained from berries. It is best to sow this seed, however, as soon as possible after harvesting, for best results. It should be sown on the surface of compost, in the usual way, and kept continuously moist. In such a large genus there will be some variation in the time taken for each species to germinate, but in most cases the seed is very slow; it may take four or five weeks for germination to commence. One exception has been found so far, P. mirablis, which came up in a few days and grew rapidly. No doubt there are other species with similar characteristics. Once the seedlings are up they should be treated very carefully and given plenty of air, with not too much water. Many varieties resent being disturbed while the plants are small, and in most cases I have found it preferable to leave the young plants until they are two or three inches high before transplanting. They will grow quite well to a larger size than this if necessary, and are much easier to manage at this stage.
Once the plants are established in pots, growth is quite fast for a bromeliad and they can be potted on into larger containers as they grow. Being terrestrials, they appreciate an occasional dose of fertiliser and a larger pot than the more epiphytic species. A well drained sandy compost has given good results, with plenty of water in summer, and much less during cold weather. I have not grown any of the deciduous varieties, but assume these would be dormant after shedding their leaves. It is necessary to remember that loss of the leaves does not mean that the plants are dead; it is part of their normal growth cycle.